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CNN Travel Now
Encore Presentation: Ethiopian Architecture Reveals History; Canadian Castle Welcomes Visitors From Around the World; Georgian Resort Eases Tensions
Aired September 01, 2001 - 06:30 ET
THIS IS A RUSH TRANSCRIPT. THIS COPY MAY NOT BE IN ITS FINAL FORM AND MAY BE UPDATED.
THIS IS A RUSH TRANSCRIPT. THIS COPY MAY NOT BE IN ITS FINAL FORM AND MAY BE UPDATED.
GAIL O'NEILL, HOST: Ethiopia: for 2,000 years its churches, castles and shrines have stood the test of time. Long revered for legends they represent and an inspiring history lesson for modern day travelers.
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UNIDENTIFIED TOURIST: I feel like we're back 1,000 years behind. Like everybody's know the donkeys who carry all their stuff on their back. It's a really strange feeling.
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O'NEILL: On the other side of the world, Canada, where one man's castle welcomes visitors from around the world.
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JOAN CROSBIE, CURATOR: He built a house that suggested royalty and hoped one day when royalty came to Toronto he would entertain them here.
UNIDENTIFIED TOURIST: It has so many rooms it's like woah, I wish I lived here.
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O'NEILL: And down South in the rolling hills of north Georgia, a French-inspired resort puts guests on a fast-track away from the stress of every day life.
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UNIDENTIFIED TOURIST: When I first got here I was really in need of just getting away, not so much of escaping, but just a need to relax.
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O'NEILL: Hi, I'm Gail O'Neill. Welcome to CNN TRAVEL NOW.
The plights of famine and civil war have brought the world's attention to Ethiopia for the last 20 years. But the country has a very rich history that predates the Old Testament. The legend of the Queen of Sheba lies there, as does what some consider the eighth wonder of the ancient world.
Rudi Bakhtiar takes us on a tour.
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RUDI BAKHTIAR, CNN CORRESPONDENT (voice-over): A journey through Ethiopia is an intellectual and spiritual awakening. The African nation's historic root begins in the ancient city of Aksum. This former capital city dates back to about 100 B.C. Later, it was the first place in Ethiopia to adopt a new religion, Christianity. At Aksum's heart lies the legend of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. Aksum is believed to be the birthplace of the Queen of Sheba, who, according to the Old Testament, traveled to Israel to meet King Solomon. They had a son, Menelik, who became the first emperor of Ethiopia.
DANIEL TESFAYE, TOUR GUIDE: When Menelik was matured he returned to Israel to his father and when he came back to Ethiopia, he took the original Arc of Covenant with him.
BAKHTIAR: To this day, Aksumites say the Arc, which once housed the Ten Commandments, is hidden in this building and guarded by a select group of monks whose life's work is protecting the sacred vessel. Many monuments in and around Aksum are more than 2,000 years old. Massive towering sculptures erected during the Aksumite empire pay homage to a mysterious past.
TESFAYE: The significance of this still was -- still is not known, still under study by the archaeologists. But they say that it was a very holy place, maybe one of the most important places.
BAKHTIAR: Today, Ethiopia's religious tradition is reflected in various aspects of every day life. But nowhere does the spiritual energy echo more than in the monolithic churches of Lalibela, what some call the eighth wonder of the ancient world, that still attracts thousands of pilgrims every year during the major holy day celebrations.
TESFAYE: These churches are built in the 13th century but that doesn't make these churches special from other historical antiques or open museums. Still, these churches are giving the service for the local people.
BAKHTIAR: Another amazing fact, all of the 11 structures were carved from one stone.
UNIDENTIFIED TOURIST: The architecture is amazing. I mean how did they do it? It's like the church comes out of the rock.
UNIDENTIFIED TOURIST: Because I've read so much about it and seen so many pictures and I heard so much about it that I've been in Ethiopia for about three weeks and this is my last stop before I go back to Addis. BAKHTIAR (on camera): And what do you think?
UNIDENTIFIED TOURIST: It's just wonderful. The pictures and what I read didn't prepare me for the scale of it and just how much it must have taken to do this.
UNIDENTIFIED TOURIST: It's not like anything you know back home. It's very different.
BAKHTIAR (voice-over): The churches were built by King Lalibela, the youngest son of the royal line of the Zagwe Dynasty. Poisoned by his own brother, Lalibela would fall into a three day coma, during which it is said he was transported to heaven, where God told him to return to Roha (ph) and build churches the like of which the world had never seen before.
(on camera): There are two type of churches here at Lalibela, rock-hewn and monolithic. This is a monolithic church, which means they dug a trench into solid rock and then created the church out of the remaining stone.
(voice-over): A complex maze of tunnels with crypts, grottoes and galleries connects the underground churches. The House of Mariam (ph), containing treasured frescoes and paintings, was the first church King Lalibela had built. The House of Medhanialam (ph), Savior of the World, is the largest.
TESFAYE: This church, it has about 72 pillars inside and outside and that church is a typical basilica type of church. It means Roman Catholic church.
BAKHTIAR: The House of Golgotha contains the king's tomb.
TESFAYE: The St. George Church is the last church built by King Lalibela and this church is also the best in its architecture and style.
BAKHTIAR: But the experience of Lalibela would not be complete without its charming accommodations. Perched on top of a hill in the village, the Roha Hotel (ph) mimics the architecture of the churches with rooms that yield magnificent views of the mountainous countryside. Upon request, the hotel provides local entertainment and there's always the local market, the exotic sights, sounds and smells a tantalizing challenge to the senses.
But perhaps the most inspiring experience comes from the people themselves, who exude a genuine warmth and welcoming spirit.
UNIDENTIFIED TOURIST: We feel like we're back 1,000 years behind. It doesn't look like it has changed at all. It's this really strange feeling.
BAKHTIAR: A short flight from Lalibela is Ethiopia's first permanent capital, Gondar. Here, King Fasilida (ph) united the country and made his mark on the landscape. TESFAYE: Before him, it was a movable capital. They moved from here and there. But he was found a permanent capital here in 1632 and he decided also to have his own palace.
BAKHTIAR: Before Fasilida's reign, a civil war divided Ethiopia. As the nation healed, the king built a castle as never before seen in the country. A majestic structure in its own right, soon it was surrounded by other fairy tale buildings as Fasilida's successors followed in his footsteps, building a series of castles and palaces in the same compound. Today, six of the original 11 castles still grace the landscape. Gondar remained Ethiopia's capital until the mid-1800s, growing in prominence both politically and religiously.
Of the 44 churches believed to be built during this time, only a few survived and the Church of Debra Selassie is considered the most noteworthy. This small church, unimposing and tucked into a hillside, contains some of the most celebrated frescoes in Ethiopia. Prevailing through the ages, the dazzling display of color depicts the life of Christ as well as honoring saints. Its ceiling, row after row of angels who watch down on the congregation, because Debra Selassie, as most of the other ancient churches here, is still in use.
Ethiopia's past remains very much a part of its present and visitors may savor it with each new discovery.
Rudy Bahktiar, CNN, on Ethiopia's historic route.
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O'NEILL: Stay tuned, later in our program, a Southern getaway that offers several escape routes from the every day pressures of life.
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DAVE ZERFAS, DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS: We're far enough away that once you kind of pull off the interstate, you are in a different world. You know, you get that resort experience without having to, you know, invest so much time to get there.
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O'NEILL: But next, we'll visit the house on the hill, a Canadian castle in the middle of a modern city.
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UNIDENTIFIED TOURIST: I like all the wood paneling and the carved wood, the wood floors and the Gothic architecture. It reminds me of things that I saw in Europe.
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O'NEILL: You've probably heard the expression "a man's home is his castle." Well, when one entrepreneur in Canada took those words literally, the result was nothing short of palatial.
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O'NEILL (voice-over): With its beautiful architecture and castle like qualities, it's one of Toronto's most popular attractions. Casa Loma is Spanish for house on the hill.
UNIDENTIFIED TOURIST: It's awesome. It has so many rooms it's like woah, I wish I lived here.
O'NEILL: Pellet (ph) was fascinated by European castles so the house was built with elements of Norman, Gothic and Romanesque architecture.
UNIDENTIFIED TOURIST: I like all the wood paneling and the carved wood, the wood floors and the Gothic architecture. It reminds me of things that I saw in Europe.
CROSBIE: He built a house that suggested royalty and hoped one day when royalty came to Toronto, he would entertain them here.
O'NEILL: The house has 98 rooms, but only a few are open to the public.
CROSBIE: OK, this room we call the serving room and it was used probably as a small dining room for intimate dinners.
O'NEILL: Also open to the public, the large master bedrooms. Lady Mary's elegant suite has its own sitting room for entertaining. While the plaster work is original to the house, the same can't be said for all of the furniture. However, there is a beautiful view of Toronto's skyline from the balcony. Sir Henry's suite is not as large, but does have its own bathroom, considered state-of-the-art in those days.
CROSBIE: And this bathroom in the early 20th century was a bathroom that other Torontonians could only dream of. Many houses in Toronto didn't have indoor plumbing until the 1930s.
O'NEILL: The view from Sir Henry's balcony is of the Great Hall.
CROSBIE: And it was the first room that guests would have gone into and Sir Henry tended to use it for parties and big functions that he had at the castle.
O'NEILL: Much of Sir Henry's fortune came from his entrepreneurship in the fields of transportation, finance and electricity, which he helped bring to the city of Toronto. In fact, Casa Loma was the first home in Canada to have its own elevator and this antique still works. It was built for Lady Pellet (ph), who found it hard to climb the stairs. These days, visitors rate the study as one of the most popular rooms because of the secret passageways hidden by doors designed to look like wood paneling.
CROSBIE: But they actually open up. One goes downstairs to the wine cellar and this one goes up to Sir Henry's bedroom. So it was a shortcut.
O'NEILL: There's also an 800 foot underground passage connecting the house to the horse stables.
CROSBIE: His horses were top rank. The horses stables were built to accommodate them in considerable luxury for the period.
O'NEILL: And the beautiful gardens are a favorite spot for visitors to relax and take it all in.
UNIDENTIFIED TOURIST: You can come and see it and, you know, it wasn't that expensive and just to save it for everybody to watch is wonderful. It's really beautiful. Well worth it.
O'NEILL: At Casa Loma, you don't have to be a billionaire to see what it's like to live like one.
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O'NEILL: Next, we'll head 40 miles out of the southern hub of Atlanta to a retreat offering something for everyone.
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ZERFAS: We have 274 rooms in the inn. There's also then the three 18 hole golf courses. Then there are a 14 room spa, which we are in, with all the various service rooms. It seems to make for a really good combination.
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O'NEILL: Don't let the vineyards and rolling hills fool you, this is not northern California but northern Georgia, home of Chateau Elan (ph). Established in response to a dare, the 3,500 acre property began as a vineyard, developed its reputation as a resort and spa and today attracts die hard fans from a variety of sports.
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O'NEILL (voice-over): Started 21 years ago by Donald and Nancy Panoz, Chateau Elan lies 40 minutes northeast of Atlanta in Braselton, Georgia, where the founders noticed the landscape had a familiar look.
ZERFAS: I think it kind of reminded them very much of that, you know, part of France, the vineyards, the rolling hills and that kind of thing.
O'NEILL: But in those days, the only fruit hanging from local vines was the indigenous muscadine grape, source of a sweet wine.
ZERFAS: And you would ask someone, well, why don't they grow other grapes for, you know, varietals and they go oh, you know, that's not possible. It can't be done. I think that really set the ball rolling in his mind, hey, we can do that. Let's get started. O'NEILL: Today, the vineyards of Chateau Elan produce an average of 20,000 to 30,000 cases of wine a year. The first winery of its kind in the region since Prohibition, in time yet another concept complete.
ZERFAS: Mrs. Panoz (ph) has become very, you know, into that healthy, well being and, you know, he visited spas. So I think it just kind of flowed naturally that that was something that she was interested in and wanted to pass on to others.
UNIDENTIFIED MASSEUSE: Our main thing is just relax.
O'NEILL: Amenities like massage are offered, along with more unconventional treatments like color therapy baths and hot stone facials.
MICHELLE UFER-HEROLD, SPA DIRECTOR: There's also crystals for different shock risks of the body, mind, heart and they will induce what you're looking for. If you're too stressed and you need to relax, then we might use a turquoise crystal. If you need some more energy, then it might be a different one.
O'NEILL (on camera): A day of pampering in the spa is probably the only way to prepare yourself for Chateau Elan's fastest growing attraction, because as any pro will tell you, in order to succeed in this arena, you've got to look at part.
(voice-over): And being relaxed before you get behind the wheel of one of these high performance cars is crucial.
MICHAEL SWAINE, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, ROAD ATLANTA: Road Atlanta is a two and a half mile road course. On this road course you've actually got to turn right and left and you've got elevation changes of upwards of 115 feet. It's amazing the kind of talent that the Panoz Racing School will bring out from a wide range of 18-year-olds on up to 75-year-olds.
O'NEILL: Most of whom have one thing in common.
SWAINE: The high income, highly educated individual. We're more of a wine and cheese crowd, as compared to NASCAR, which you would generally associate with beer and hot dogs. Every day is an adventure here at Road Atlanta. To quote an old friend, it's like living the dream.
O'NEILL: But should your field of dreams encompass greener pastures, there are three 18 hole courses to choose from, one designed by a group of Hall of Fame golfers, including Gene Sausen Sarazon.
GEOFF SARAZON, GOLF PRO: And he was a great grandfather to me. He raised me in the game and he helped design the legends course with Cathy Worth (ph) and Sam Sneed. The three of them came together. They picked six of their favorite holes from all their travels and put it through this landscape and it's a beautiful course.
O'NEILL: The legendary Stan Snick (ph) had a hand in developing the tennis center and there's also an equestrian center with five world class show rooms. But for blue ribbon fare of another kind, the 270 room facility has seven restaurants with menus offering classical French, gourmet spa and casual bistro style foods.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Everything is done in-house. We don't buy any prefab products for this restaurant at all.
O'NEILL: One of many features that make the winery turned resort spa a popular destination for those seeking Southern comfort with a French flair.
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O'NEILL: Stay tuned. Coming up, we'll tell you how to get more information on Chateau Elan, Casa Loma and the relics of Ethiopia featured in today's program.
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ANNOUNCER: If you'd like to experience the ancient history of Ethiopia, careful planning is essential. The best time to go is during the drier months, October to May. Proper vaccinations and anti-malarial medication are a must. You'll find more useful tips on the Ethiopian Tourism Commission's Web site.
In Toronto, Casa Loma is open year round. Admission costs from $6 to $10 Canadian and includes a self-guided audio tour. If you feel driven to get on track at Chateau Elan's Road Atlanta, lessons range from about $900 for one day to nearly $3,500 for four. Rooms start at $159 and spa packages are available.
Links to all of these sites are available at cnn.com/TRAVELNOW.
O'NEILL: From the French inspired retreat of Chateau Elan to the hilltop haven of Casa Loma to the awe inspiring monuments of Ethiopia, we hope you've enjoyed our grand tour. Thank you for watching. I'm Gail O'Neill. That's CNN TRAVEL NOW.
Looking for a unique place to stay? We'll have several suggestions on next week's itinerary beginning in Argentina. Estancias are working farms. Many are also all-inclusive retreats where travelers can experience rural life while learning about Argentine culture.
From the country, we head to the big city. In Chicago, we'll show you why this cool hotel has guests singing the blues.
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UNIDENTIFIED MALE: When you come into the House of Blues, when you enter your room, it's like you're in a whole different world.
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O'NEILL: In Hong Kong, it's all about a sophisticated stay with Chinese flare. (BEGIN VIDEO CLIP)
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: We introduce the Chinese intellecademy, which teaches you the basics of feng shui, of brush painting; it even gives you an introduction to Chinese medicine and so on.
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O'NEILL: And in Hawaii, enjoy your own private island. Well, almost. Lodging is distinct as the destination next time on CNN TRAVEL NOW.
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