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American Morning

A Mardi Gras to Remember

Aired February 28, 2006 - 07:00   ET

THIS IS A RUSH TRANSCRIPT. THIS COPY MAY NOT BE IN ITS FINAL FORM AND MAY BE UPDATED.

SOLEDAD O'BRIEN, CNN ANCHOR: Good morning. Welcome, everybody.
MILES O'BRIEN, CNN ANCHOR: Good morning, Soledad.

S. O'BRIEN: Good morning. Hey.

M. O'BRIEN: How are you doing over there? It's loud.

S. O'BRIEN: Mardi Gras.

M. O'BRIEN: Yes. How is the crowd doing there? they have to rest sometime, don't they?

S. O'BRIEN: You know, the crowd is actually, believe it or not, beginning to thin out a little bit, and they're starting to bring some vehicles hue through, which means they're starting to clean up. As the trucks come through, the people disperse a little bit. Of course we're talking about Mardi Gras, New Orleans.

I'm Soledad O'Brien, coming to you from the Royal Sonesta Hotel, which is right on Bourbon Street, right here in the French Quarter.

Miles is not so far away, right, Miles?

M. O'BRIEN: We are one mile away from you as the crow flies, Soledad. We are along St. Charles Avenue. This is the parade route. And we are prepared to be pelted a little bit.

As a matter of fact, I should tell you, just in case I've got -- there you see the route of the parade where I am and where Soledad is. That green line, St. Charles Avenue, is where we're going to see the parade. I just want to show you, I'm ready just in case with some eye protection in case we need that in front of the beads. OSHA approved, I should tell you.

Take a look, we have some live pictures. They call it neutral ground here. The median that you would probably call it elsewhere. Take a look at the pictures here. See those ladders? In a lot of cases, what people do is they put like kind of a tool box-type setup on the top and put their kids on the ladders, and then the kids wave and get all the trinkets tossed to them.

But if you're really truly a hardcore New Orleans Mardi Gras person, you come to the neutral ground with a big stepladder with a seat on top for the kids. I don't know if we have the shot from down on the ground there on the neutral ground, but people are out there already. It's a little chilly. There we go. Setting up tents. They've got fires burning. The barbecue will be going very shortly. It is an all-day event, and probably just a few adult beverages throughout the course of the day, we might say, but, hey, nobody is driving here. They're just watching -- Soledad.

S. O'BRIEN: Well, if you really are a hardcore partier here, then you're still out here behind me, even though you can see the sanitation vehicles have started rolling through. And they are kind of moving the people off the streets. I mean, keep in mind, it's now morning time. It's time for the folks to go to bed, rest up, because there's lots going on, at least for at least a couple of hours, as they head into Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras.

You know, you were talking a little bit about the history. The French Quarter, of course, suffered very little damage, thankfully, in the wake of Hurricane Katrina. They always say "soi de vive (ph)," or the joy of life, and I think that pretty much describes where we are right here. Whether you're talking People who are talking about recovering from the hurricane, or you're talking about all these revelers who are out here, or all the bars that are open or all clubs that are open. To a large degree, the people here that we've spoken to have said, even those who told me they've lost everything, they're back to support Mardi Gras, and to support the area that they love so much -- Miles.

M. O'BRIEN: As they say here, Soledad, "laissez le bon temp rouler (ph)!" How did I do? That's French, I believe.

S. O'BRIEN: Wonderfully. Since I don't speak any French at all, great.

M. O'BRIEN: So I could have fooled you. All right, that means, let the good times roll, of course. There are five parades, count 'em, five, all through uptown New Orleans today. Two of them, though, are what you would call marquee events, cornerstones, the big deal. And in one case, the big coconut. Zulu in racks (ph). Zulu with the golden coconuts, the prize throw, kicks off on Jackson Avenue, heads down St. Charles, and from there it heads downtown to Kanalsky (ph).

This is a truncated parade route. They did scale down this whole thing because fewer people are here post-Katrina. It's just seemed more appropriate to do a little less of a parade than normal. It's still raucous, and bawdy and big, though.

Now, Rex, the other big one, the main event parade, they gather on Napoleon Avenue and the will be throwing their trinkets, beads. And in case of Rex, the big deal is the doubloons. I'll have to get a commitment to get a few doubloons. And they will go all the way down Napoleon to St. Charles, and then make their way to Canal.

Now, Chris Lawrence is with the Zulu Social Aid and Pleasure Club. They are a benevolent society, as we just heard from Jay Banks, who is a member of the krewe.

And you know, it's interesting, Chris, it is benevolent in the sense they are providing a shot of enthusiasm and happiness in a city that really needs to smile, doesn't it? CHRIS LAWRENCE, CNN CORRESPONDENT: Yes, no doubt about it, Miles. You know, this club goes back to the early 1900s, when they provided insurance for black people in the community who couldn't get it any other way, and they've continued that right up until this year. We've got a great seat here. The Zulus give their official toast here at their first stop, another tradition that goes back to the days when black people were not allowed to give a toast at city hall like the other krewes. And this year, they tell me this Mardi Gras means even more than ever.

(BEGIN VIDEO CLIP)

UNIDENTIFIED MALE: I really need some Mardi Gras, you know, considering all of the devastation and everything that's happened in the city.

(END VIDEO CLIP)

LAWRENCE: Yes, almost everybody agrees, Zulus just have the most fun out of any of the krewes, just an incredible parade. Some really colorful characters on their floats, and of course everybody looking to get their hands on that golden nugget, the coconut. It started out as a regular coconut, now has evolved into a very decorative item that is just really, really prize among the people here in New Orleans -- Miles.

M. O'BRIEN: They don't throw it, do they, Chris? it's handed out.

LAWRENCE: No, no, they got to hand them. You know, somebody might get hurt throwing those coconuts off the float. I heard Jay Banks promise you one, Miles, so that's one more person I can cross off my list of all these people I got to take care of today.

M. O'BRIEN: That's all right. I'm sure you will not walk away empty-handed.

Chris Lawrence, you are an intrepid reporter who gets his quarry whenever he is sent for it.

All right, we will be checking in with Chris all the way down the parade route as he makes his way through the streets of New Orleans with the Zulu Krewe.

Now AMERICAN MORNING will be taking out a ride through the city of New Orleans, metaphorically at least, until 1:00 p.m. Eastern time today.

If you're heading out the door and you can't stay with us one reason or not and you just want to dial in and watch it and sort of direct it yourself, we invite you to do that via our service CNN Pipeline. Pipeline will be your Mardi Gras destination today, in addition to AMERICAN MORNING. There'll be a web cam on Bourbon Street all day and, of course, the parade cam. And guess what? It's free all day today! Pipeline free for Mardi Gras. Pipeline enjoying Fat Tuesday as well. Coverage you can only find on CNN.com and here on CNN.

Back to Soledad in the French Quarter.

S. O'BRIEN: Yes, how about a golden coconut for me, your co- anchor, remember? I heard you ask for one from Jay Banks.

M. O'BRIEN: I will take care of you. I will take care of you.

S. O'BRIEN: We're like this, the two of us, two peas in a pod. We're like a coconut.

M. O'BRIEN: Always take care of your co-anchor. I will take care of you; don't worry.

S. O'BRIEN: Yes, you know, because on Bourbon Street, there's no parade is going to come down here. No one is going to throw down anything here on us here on Bourbon Street, although right now they are cleaning up all the garbage.

For many people who had to leave New Orleans because of Hurricane Katrina, they got a chance really, truly to start over. They got a new life, often in a new state. This morning, we're going to take a look at how they're doing Mardi Gras in Texas, bringing a look at their culture to where they are now.

CNN's Ed Lavandera joins us with more from Houston this morning.

Hey, Ed, good morning to you.

ED LAVANDERA, CNN CORRESPONDENT: Good morning, Soledad.

Well, you might be wondering why we're reporting this story from a rodeo arena? Well, it turns out that this last day of Mardi Gras is also the first day of the Houston rodeo. With so many evacuees in this area, starting their lives over, that little detail represents a blending of cultures.

(BEGIN VIDEOTAPE)

CHRISTINE SMITH, KATRINA EVACUEE: You're kidding? Where did you get this?

Oh, Betsy, thank you! How does it look?

LAVANDERA (voice-over): Christine Smith is trading in Mardi Gras beads and parade for a cowboy hat and a rodeo. It's a symbol of how much her life has changed since Hurricane Katrina destroyed her Lakeview home, driving her out of New Orleans.

SMITH: Every single day is a new adventure here. It's a new life, a new beginning. It's exciting.

LAVANDERA: Smith is one of the 150,000 evacuees living in Houston. She doesn't plan to return to New Orleans so, for her, a new beginning means embracing a little Texas culture. SMITH: I want to see the cowboys. I want to see the real cowboys! I want to, you know, see the animals. I want to see when they "lassoo" them the cows or the bulls? Whatever they do to pull them down.

LAVANDERA: She meant to say lasso the bulls, but she is still learning the ropes. We'll give her a little more time.

What many evacuees did not know when they arrived in the Houston area is that the second largest Mardi Gras party in the country takes place on nearby Galveston Island. That's helping 61-year-old Frederick Bell start over. For the first time in his life, he's not celebrating Mardi Gras in New Orleans, but he's starting a new tradition, joining the krewe of Babalu and riding in this float.

FREDERICK BELL, KATRINA EVACUEE: We have as much fun on this float as we do in New Orleans.

LAVANDERA (on camera): You feel at home?

BELL: Yes, I did, I really felt at home.

SMITH: Do you have a mirror?

LAVANDERA (voice-over): Christine Smith is already feeling at home in Houston, but even this cowgirl in the making can't completely let go of her New Orleans sense of style.

SMITH: With my high heels! I'm going to the rodeo in my high heels!

LAVANDERA (on camera): Want to put some Mardi Gras beads on top of that?

SMITH: I think I might. I'll have to decorate. Maybe a purple, green, and gold feather.

(END VIDEOTAPE)

LAVANDERA: Having a little fun at Christine's expense. I hope she won't mind too much. But what Christine and Frederick really represent here, Soledad, is kind of that difference. Christine struggling a little bit. The idea of seeing Mardi Gras was a little bit tough for her. Frederick landed in Galveston. He had no idea when he arrived there that Galveston celebrated its Mardi Gras. And for he and his family, who are there now, it was a welcome surprise, and a much needed one as well -- Soledad.

S. O'BRIEN: Oh, I sure bet. Ed Lavandera. Great story, Ed. Thank you very much.

LAVANDERA: Thanks.

(NEWSBREAK)

(WEATHER REPORT) S. O'BRIEN: We're going to have much more of our special Mardi Gras coverage coming up in just a moment. I'm going to talk live with the mayor of New Orleans, Ray Nagin, to see what he has to say about the city's progress ever since Hurricane Katrina hit -- Miles.

M. O'BRIEN: Soledad, I have a little quiz for you and everybody listening. Where did the first Mardi Gras in this country occur? Was it here in the city of New Orleans? No, no, no! You would be wrong!

We'll give you an opportunity to think about it, and mull it over and guess about it. We'll give you the answer to that quiz question after a break.

(COMMERCIAL BREAK)

S. O'BRIEN: Oh, the party is on in New Orleans! We all know that. Many sober reflections, obviously, in this first post-Katrina Mardi Gras.

Let's get to the mayor of New Orleans, Mayor Ray Nagin. He joins us to talk about the celebration and also what lies ahead for this city.

Nice to see you, Mr. Mayor. Thanks for talking with us.

MYR. RAY NAGIN, NEW ORLEANS: Good morning. And happy Mardi Gras.

S. O'BRIEN: Thank you very much. Hey, I see you've got a little bit of a costume on and you are taking part in the Zulu parade, is that right?

NAGIN: Absolutely. I'm honoring all of the first responders in the military that supported us right after Katrina, and one of my heroes, General Honore. I have my official cigar that I'm going to be smoking later in his honor.

S. O'BRIEN: Well, I'm sure he'll be very flattered by that. I want to ask you a little bit about the celebration. How do you think that they're going? I mean, some people said they're smaller. Some people have said they're more toned down. What do you think?

NAGIN: Well, it depends. The first weekend -- Mardi Gras extends over two weeks really. The first weekend, the crowds were a little light. But this particular weekend, the crowds have been, in my opinion, on par with previous Mardi Gras, and Saturday night, where we had two super krewes together, Endymion and Bacchus, the crowds were really heavy.

S. O'BRIEN: They couldn't even get a good spot to watch.

Let me ask you a couple of questions about the mayor's race, which is coming up just around the corner, April 22nd is the date.

NAGIN: Yes. S. O'BRIEN: We talked to the lieutenant governor, Mitch Landrieu, who is running against you. Why do you think you would be a better mayor than he would be?

NAGIN: Well, you know, I have been in this seat for four years now. I came on a reform ticket, started that process, and then Katrina hit. We had the economy really pointing in a positive direction. I stayed here for the storm. I didn't come in for photo ops. I was here for the duration until I went to check on my family after everything calmed down.

I have the experience. I have the business background. And I'm the only person who has a plan to bring back the city, and we implement it. And I think the citizens, once they look at all that, they're going to make the right choice.

S. O'BRIEN: Some people might say you've made some strange comments in the wake of the storm. Between the storm and today, you talked about chocolate city, you've made comments, something that you've had to apologize for. Explain that to me. And do you, obviously, regret sort of saying things that made you a little bit of a lightning rod?

NAGIN: Well, you know, I've always been controversial since I've been in office. I'm not your typical politician, as most people keep reminding me.

What I was trying to do with the chocolate city particular speech was speak to some of the hopelessness that's out there, particularly among African-Americans that are spread out throughout the country, that are yearning to come back and didn't feel as though they were welcomed.

Unfortunately, those comments offended some people. And we are moving forward.

S. O'BRIEN: There's some people who say maybe it wasn't that the comments were offensive, it's that what New Orleans needs right now is somebody who can negotiate with Washington D.C., who can deal with Congress, who can deal with local officials, who can deal with state officials, who's not going to be a lightning rod and make comments that might have the media, you know, headlines for the next couple of days kind of thing.

NAGIN: Well, if you need that, then I'm your man. There's no one that has gone to Congress consistently and was in the front of $3 billion coming for the levees, $8 billion in economic incentives for businesses and $6.2 billion for housing. There's no one else who has been in the White House that has dealt with the president and former presidents, and also has worked with the state officials. And there's no one else who has brought the parish leaders together under one plan to deal with housing. So if people are truly looking for what you just described, then there's no one else that can do that job effectively.

S. O'BRIEN: At the same time, I think you're in front of the Convention Center this morning, which looks great. I was there yesterday. Really, they're ahead of the schedule; it looks good.

Then you go to the Lower Ninth Ward, and it's a mess. Then you go over to St. Bernard's Parish, and it's a mess. And some people would say, well, Mr. Mayor as the guy who's in charge, why haven't we seen the progress in these areas that we've seen at your beautiful, sparkling new Convention Center?

NAGIN: Well, you know, as mayor of a fairly broke city, we're using all of the resources that we have to our disposal, but we are heavily dependent upon the federal government and the state government to provide us with the resources we need until our economy comes back.

We have made some progress. It's basically utilizing all of the federal dollars that have been authorized for the cleanup of this city.

And to be very frank with you, we're a city of -- a tale of two cities. Downtown is somewhat of an oasis. But as you move out to other areas, New Orleans east and the Lower Ninth Ward, you see some of the devastation, and it brings you back to just how devastating this hurricane was.

S. O'BRIEN: Mayor Ray Nagin talking with us this morning. Good luck in the election. We appreciate you being with us. Good luck on the parade today with the Zulus. Thanks for your time.

NAGIN: Happy Mardi Gras to everybody around the country. And all of my New Orleanians, we wish you were here. We're going to do this in your memory and your honor.

S. O'BRIEN: You just passed that long.

Let's get right back to Miles.

M. O'BRIEN: Thanks, Soledad.

We just heard from the mayor. We have his take on what he thinks about the city's progress. But what's the view in Washington? We will ask congressman from this part of the world, Bobby Jindal, about that. We will ask him if he's taken a look at the governor's office again here in Louisiana.

And then we're going to take you to a neighborhood in Biloxi that is known as "The Point." Folks there are not in a celebrating mood on this Mardi Gras. In fact, they say their devastated community has been overlooked by just about everyone. Not us, though! Stay with us as we tell you their stories.

(COMMERCIAL BREAK)

(MARKET REPORT)

M. O'BRIEN: More of our special Mardi Gras coverage is coming your way. We're going to be on for quit a while today, all the way until 1:00 p.m. Eastern Time. Soledad and I, and the rest of the crew. That's C-R-E-W, not K-R-E-W-E. Although today, I guess could be a K-R-E-W-E, the krewe of AMERICAN MORNING. I like that. What do you think? Should we get some golden coconuts? Maybe we should do that.

In just a moment, we will talk to Representative Bobby Jindal, and we'll ask him about the recovery here in New Orleans.

Stay with us.

(COMMERCIAL BREAK)

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