Return to Transcripts main page
Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown
Tanzania
Aired February 01, 2015 - 21:00 ET
THIS IS A RUSH TRANSCRIPT. THIS COPY MAY NOT BE IN ITS FINAL FORM AND MAY BE UPDATED.
ANTHONY BOURDAIN, HOST (voice-over): I went looking for the dream of Africa. I woke up in Tanzania.
(THEME SONG)
BOURDAIN: The narrow streets and neatly dressed schoolchildren of Zanzibar's Stone Town make it feel like a very different Africa than I've ever known. It's tight, small. The architecture speaks of many layers. The hierarchy long gone but still evident.
The famous Zanzibari doors, for instance. Meticulously carved of mahogany and teak. The patterns reveal details of the original inhabitants' ethnicity and professions. Brass spikes evoke similar doors in India. The lotus flower, a historically Egyptian symbol that's meant to promote fertility. And chains, a reminder that this once was a central hub of the slave trade.
What Zanzibar is today is definitely and overwhelmingly Muslim: 99 percent of the population. And you see a strong influence everywhere you look. The children in hijab, coming from the madrassa. The streets are neat, and private homes even of the very poor are maintained with great pride. The call to prayer, five times a day.
Zanzibar, part of Tanzania but also a semi-autonomous state, sits just 30 miles off the coast of the mainland.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: The minute you cross the ocean from the mainland, you feel like you're in a different country and a different culture, different vibe.
BOURDAIN: Saoud Saeed (ph) is a native Zanzibari and former tour guide, and he knows his way around these parts.
(on camera): So, what are our options here?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: This is what we call mandazi.
BOURDAIN (voice-over): Mandazi, a Swahili treat, basically an African donut, or flitter, and vahias (ph), a fried lentil fritter, Indian, spiced with cumin, turmeric and coriander.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Care for a cup of coffee?
BOURDAIN (on camera): Yes, let's do it. (voice-over): If you live here, if you're from here, chances are you
start your day with some bitter spiced coffee. Talk about the issues of the day, politics for one. Maybe a pastry.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Is that good?
BOURDAIN (on camera): Oh, that's good. So, you're born and bred here. How long has your family been here? How far back do you guys go?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: I'm half Indian, half African, and my mother has been here four generation.
BOURDAIN: Four generations, so that's starting out in the...
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Late 1700s.
BOURDAIN: Wow. Who built this neighborhood?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Construction started in about 1830 in a Portuguese colony. We are Portuguese, yes?
BOURDAIN: Right.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: The Portuguese stayed from 1846 and left in 1934, but they lost a lot of power in 1896.
BOURDAIN (voice-over): Confused? Let's take a step back.
The Persians were the first major power to set up here back around 975 A.D., expanding their empire onto the strategically positioned island. Then the Portuguese used Zanzibar as a hub for their slave trade and spices.
Then the Omanis (ph) did the same, ultimately with the British, who ruled through them.
1964, revolution. As with most revolutions, the days following were violent, chaotic and ugly. After overthrowing the mostly Arab government, reprisals.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: It wasn't intended for a revolution where more than 3,000 Arab soldiers and a lot of Indian soldiers were moved out of this country.
BOURDAIN (on camera): But your family stayed?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: My family stayed.
BOURDAIN: Why?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: There was no money for the family to move out.
BOURDAIN: So it was just -- there was no option? Stick with what was left?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yes.
BOURDAIN: Tough times?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Very tough times.
BOURDAIN (voice-over): In about two hours from Stone Town, this is Jambiani, a tiny fishing village. Here the first revolutionaries would meet and plan for an independent Zanzibar. Zanzibar's first post-revolution president, Abeid Amani Karume, served until his assassination in 1972.
This, too, is Abeid Karume, grandson of the country's first president.
(on camera): Well, what was the situation back then, political situation back then?
ABEID KARUME, GRANDSON OF ZANZIBAR'S FIRST PRESIDENT: Well, it wasn't good. Basically, it was English at the top, Arabs in the middle...
BOURDAIN: Right.
KARUME: ... and then the Africans are way, way at the bottom. And it was a form of apartheid, you know.
BOURDAIN: Was this village sort of a center for revolutionary...
KARUME: This village was important in terms of the political support prior to the revolution. When my grandfather and my grandmother stayed right here and had meetings on the field right over there. That's where they would have their meetings to raise support for the African and Shirazi people, their identity. The objective was to give equal rights to all people of Zanzibar. Of course revolutions aren't the best thing sometimes when it comes to peaceful transition.
Well, this is the house of Ban Asani (ph) and Ilanka (ph). They're preparing a wonderful lunch for us.
(SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE)
GRAPHIC: Your ghosts are here.
KARUME: This is Martha (ph). She used to take care of my grandmother many, many years ago.
UNIDENTIFIED FEMALE: (SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE)
GRAPHIC: How are you two?
KARUME: (SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE)
GRAPHIC: We're good.
BOURDAIN: We're here for lunch.
(voice-over): Deemlaka (ph) was a close family friend to Abeid and his grandparents, and she's putting together quite a spread. Coconut rice, freshly caught fish called tassi simmered in broth of garlic and lime, topped with um chusi (ph), a fresh salad of chopped tomato, eggplant, cucumber and potato.
Another fish, Cuvier (ph) or mackerel, marinated in juice and garlic, then pan-fried.
(on camera): Now, this is good.
KARUME: And you can use your hands.
BOURDAIN: Good. This I can do by hand. The rice, I need help. Good. That's looking good. So coconut rice. Japati bread from the other
side -- other side of the water there.
KARUME: That's it. This is cassava.
BOURDAIN: Cassava?
KARUME: Two different types of...
BOURDAIN: Pan-fried bread. Look at all these kids. Watch out. Future revolutionaries.
KARUME: In the end (ph), the only one who's going to end up changing things come from them. Think about it. I mean, the challenges we face on a small island country. That we all face sometime. Have to preserve all these things and find balance. For me, I see Africa as a whole. I see a very interesting time. I'm very hopeful.
BOURDAIN: Optimistic?
KARUME: I'm optimistic. I think the Zanzibaris are a great people. And, given the opportunity, I think they can put a lot on the table, not only for themselves but also for the culture in East Africa and possibly even the world. They're a great people. Why not? As far as an immigrant.
(COMMERCIAL BREAK)
BOURDAIN (voice-over): Say you're going to Zanzibar and people will tell you about the seafood. It's pretty impressive. In Stone Town or Downey Gardens (ph), every night vendors set up an insane variety of every iteration of seafood snack.
(on camera): Oh, yes, I would love some of that.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: The first one here we've got tiger prawns. We have octopus, calamari, with masala spice. We have shellfish, we have a mussel small shell, a tuna fish, mahi-mahi.
BOURDAIN: Good. I think let me find some of the octopus.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Starburst (ph) lobster? With masala spice. But it's not hot. But if you like hot, we give you...
BOURDAIN: I like hot. All right, good. Give me some chili mango with that. All right, good.
Mmm. I like it. It's chewy but tasty. Lobster is working for me. Too spicy for you, ma'am. Yes. Believe me, only one of us is going to be shitting like a (UNINTELLIGIBLE) tonight. And it's not going to be you.
The famous Zanzibar pizza. Awesome.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Cut up onion, beef, tomato fresh, cheese, mayonnaise, with egg.
BOURDAIN: Sounds awesome to me. Looks good. Thank you. Mmm. Weird and wonderful. Mmm.
(voice-over): These stands are extremely popular with locals and visitors alike, so of course the government raised the rents. One guy, Juma, decided to pick up and move his place a bit out of town. His customers came with him.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: This is Juma.
BOURDAIN (on camera): Hi, Juma. How are you? So what are we having?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Beef on a stick, chick on a stick, half chicken and all the spices, of course.
BOURDAIN: Right. I ordered beef for now.
Beef is good. I'll take half a chicken.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Half a chicken?
BOURDAIN: Yes, sure.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: (SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE)
BOURDAIN: Juma is famous for his chicken. The bird is slathered with a mixture of garlic, lime, coriander, ginger, salt and pepper. Then, it's grilled and served either as a satay or whole pieces topped with Tamarind chili sauce.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Preparation for all this is Saturday morning, preparing, cutting and then coming here at 6:30 to finish about 10.
BOURDAIN: How many guys are working here?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: It's about six, seven of them.
BOURDAIN: Six or seven of them.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: All around the table.
BOURDAIN: Wow, it's like a big operation. He's finishing the skewers, I guess he's half-cooking or saucing. He's re-heating, finishing the skewers. That guy doesn't just set up plates for him to top with meat. And then I guess they've got the bread and sauce and finishing them to go, also.
What are they squirting on the fries?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: There's hot sauce. There's ketchup.
BOURDAIN: So you never go hungry here. There's always food in the street.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: If you come here to buy ten skewers, you're going to eventually buy 20 or 30, because somebody is always asking for food.
BOURDAIN: Right.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: And you always buy it. It's just the culture. You always shell out food.
BOURDAIN: There we go.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: And you use the stick as your fork.
BOURDAIN: Hot, hot, hot.
Where do you think the recipe came from? This is a real mixed-up history here?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: It's mostly Arabic/Indian components with the spices, most of the trees like mangos came from India, pineapples came from Brazil.
BOURDAIN: Tamarind, southeast Asia, not even India.
Damn, that's good. Damn. The chicken is really awesome. I might need some more of this. I'm liking the heat, man. Good stuff. Incredible.
(voice-over): The 250-mile flight from Zanzibar across the water to the town of Arusha takes an hour and a half. But culturally, you might as well be flying from Texas to the Philippines.
Kilimanjaro, into whose white peak Hemingway's gangrenous hero saw himself disappear as he slipped into death. From there we head into the Serengeti.
A journey of this kind, one must expect the occasional setback.
We reach the eastern edge of the Serengeti, where it's a steep climb to the magnificent Ngorongoro Crater, once a massive volcano that somewhere around 2.5 million years ago collapsed in on itself, creating this caldera, a true lost word. Inside the crater, an entire ecosystem within an ecosystem. Wildlife pretty much stayed put.
Coming to drink, well, right below my place. It's nice. Very, very nice if you find yourself here. A hot bubble bath awaits after a long day in the bush. Perhaps a dry sherry from a cut glass decanter. The next morning one rises to breakfast in one's chambers on the
balcony, perhaps. Silver service, hot coffee, freshly baked croissant.
(on camera): Good morning. Thank you, sir.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: You're welcome.
BOURDAIN (voice-over): The rules of the house, while slightly restricting, are sensible enough, and given the luxurious surroundings and the view, hardly a burden.
(on camera): You're not supposed to wander around at night here unescorted. There's, like, lions and hyenas and elephants and stuff. And while I'm told that baboons can get rapey, there were no knocks on the door. You know, I know what you're thinking already. You're not going to do what I think you're going to do, are you? You're not going to go out there and shoot some beautiful animal in the brain. No. Answer? No. What kind of sick (AUDIO GAP) wants to shoot an elephant?
Even the toilet has a nice view. This is pretty much what you see, because you're sitting on the snakes.
Idyllic natural setting and good plumbing, it's pretty much paradise.
(COMMERCIAL BREAK)
BOURDAIN (voice-over): It's nuts driving into the Serengeti. After a short while you actually get used to the "Jungle Book" scene playing out in front of your car.
(on camera): It's interesting to see the giraffe and wildebeests, zebra. They all seem to hang out with each together. No conflict at all.
COLIN MCCONNELL, GUIDE: Pretty much there's no conflict in what they want to eat. It starts with the elephants, buffalos taking the big stuff out. The zebras follow it down, and the wildebeests are the really close crop.
BOURDAIN (voice-over): My guide is Colin McConnell, a fourth generation African born in Kenya, who lives in Tanzania and knows this area like I know the deli counter at Barney Greengrass.
MCCONNELL: About every tree you see here that's lying on its side hasn't fallen out of choice. It's been pushed over by elephants.
There's an elephant over there.
BOURDAIN: Oh, yes. Whoo!
MCCONNELL: It's a big bull.
BOURDAIN: Magnificent. Will he charge us?
MCCONNELL: No.
BOURDAIN: If we piss him off?
MCCONNELL: If we piss him off he would.
They sleep so soundly, these zebra. You can creep right up.
BOURDAIN (voice-over): Zebras and more zebras, so many you almost get bored seeing a heard of them. Giraffes looking only slightly irritated to be interrupted and ever more massive herds, stadium-sized crowds of wildebeests. A Phish concert of these unkempt looking things every few hundred yards. All that's missing is a hackey sack.
MCCONNELL: Everyone's come to terms with now the wildebeest migration means wildebeests jumping into rivers, but in fact, that only happens two months of the whole year. The rest of the year they're trekking through the bush. To me this is so much more spectacular when you see these big numbers. You'll be in an area this morning that was full of wildebeests and go there this afternoon, and there's not one. They've moved.
BOURDAIN: Thousands and thousands of wildebeests on their annual migration are everywhere. A big circle stretched out across Tanzania and into Kenya, in search of prime grazing. It's all about water and grass and a good place to make babies.
MCCONNELL: I mean, look at this little guy. He's keeping up with his mom.
BOURDAIN (on camera): He's doing OK.
MCCONNELL: Within 15 minutes of being born, they're up and standing.
BOURDAIN: Really?
MCCONNELL: Running as fast as their moms within a couple of hours.
There's a wildebeest that didn't make it.
BOURDAIN: How long has it been there?
MCCONNELL: A day or two.
BOURDAIN: Really?
MCCONNELL: Very fresh.
BOURDAIN (voice-over): You don't want to get lost here. You definitely don't want to be on foot outside your car or injured, for instance. Nature, as they say, is a cruel mistress. It takes care of its own without mercy.
The evidence of this cool math called survival is everywhere.
(on camera): Non-immediate family, you're not going to help a brother out. MCCONNELL: No. You would think, huh?
BOURDAIN (voice-over): Start limping, first come the hyenas.
MCCONNELL: The hyenas see the vultures dropping.
BOURDAIN: Right.
MCCONNELL: And that's key to them there's food up. And the vultures really need the hyenas to rip open the skin to start eating it.
BOURDAIN (voice-over): By the time they finished ripping out your soft parts, treating your femur like a chew toy, the vultures and the marabou storks lovingly called the undertaker birds, are waiting for their turn.
I don't know about you, but whenever I have cause to reflect on a pack of hyenas tunneling into an ass and ripping out the guts, I think, you know what? I could really go for some pesto right now.
By Lake Masek we paused for lunch. Indigenous specialties like penne with pesto, steamed baby corn, and snow peas, grilled tomatoes sprinkled with parmigiana, oh look brownies.
Those hippos are coming in close.
MCCONNELL: Yes, they can smell the pesto.
BOURDAIN: They love pesto.
They're coming ashore.
MCCONNELL: You're safe.
BOURDAIN: Over thankfully cold beers, I learn who is really the most dangerous animal here. Yeah that's right, Mr. Lovable funny hippo, always in a tutu in the cartoon, a vicious, unpredictable and apparently incredibly fast moving killer.
MCCONNELL: You know, you happen to leave here and go for a pee behind the tree there...
BOURDAIN: Yeah
MCCONNELL: ... and come face to face with this hippo. The hippo would easily outrun you, one big chomp, big tusks straight through you (inaudible).
BOURDAIN: Just get between them and their mud hole and they'll be all over you like Justin Beiber's bodyguards, it can get ugly.
What do hippo penises look like?
MCCONNELL: I have no idea.
BOURDAIN: Did a hippo never emerges from the water with like a... MCCONNELL: No.
BOURDAIN: ... with a hippo hard on?
MCCONNELL: Not that I've seen.
BOURDAIN: Really?
MCCONNELL: No, they're underwater. I don't go snorkeling.
BOURDAIN: I find that comforting to know.
(COMMERCIAL BREAK)
(FOREIGN LANGUAGE)
BOURDAIN: They are among the last great warrior tribes on earth. Semi-nomadic, they believe that all the world's cattle are a gift of the gods to them, the Maasai People. They move with their animals across the Tanzanian plains, setting up homes where they find the best grazing.
Their cattle are everything, the wealth of the family, units of currency, givers of milk to live and on special occasions of meat and blood. The Maasai construct their villages or boma's like this, a strategic hamlets designed to repel and discourage predators.
INGELA JANSSON, FIELD BIOLOGIST, SERENGETI LION PROJECT: We have a lot of livestock coming in here. A lot of the other, like migratory games they've all taken off, so this area is quite famous for the cats, the big cats.
BOURDAIN: The big cats, lions roam free here, an area of the Serengeti called Nduto.
JANSSON: It's a paradox, I mean the lions are an enemy to them, they are a competitor but they're also something that they greatly admire.
BOURDAIN: Swedish native Ingela Jansson, a field biologist for the Serengeti Lion Project is trying to find a balance between the needs, traditions, and basic identity of the Maasai people to the outside world's desire to protect these beautiful killing machines. This is what could happen when a Maasai warrior defending his cattle takes on a hungry adult lion, nobody wants this.
For the Maasai being apprised of the comings and goings of the lion population is a useful thing, preferable to find out in advance one would think and take evasive action than the alternative. But remember too and respect that the Maasai have always defined themselves and their identities by their enemy, a tribe of proud warriors. What happens when there's no one and nothing to fight?
Ingela has brought several Maasai on her team to show them up close the lions they share this land with.
JANSSON: So often on my days when I'm working with the Maasai, you don't eat at all, you get a cup of tea in the morning and if you're lucky in the rainy season you'll get either fresh milk or this.
BOURDAIN: This is amasi by the way, a lumpy yogurt like drink central to the Maasai diet.
JANSSON: Cheers.
BOURDAIN: Cheers.
And before you say yuck, it might be worth noting that between their nearly 100 percent protein diet of meat, blood, and dairy, the Maasai are known to have near super human cardio. Olympic level stamina and condition, they can run miles at a time without rest or water and can basically kick your ass at near any physical contest given half the chance. So, help yourself to some sour lumpy goodness.
Not bad, a little honey, some raisins in there, good to go.
JANSSON: It's so different here, like the rainy season, dry season. Such different challenges. What do you think of going under here?
BOURDAIN: I'm OK with it.
Currently Ingela has been tracking two lions in particular, Ramus (ph) and Puyo (ph).
JANSSON: Oh Ramus is there. Do you see him?
BOURDAIN: I see -- yes I do, there're they are, I see them. Wow, two of them.
JANSSON: Yeah.
BOURDAIN: You like them don't you?
JANSSON: They're magnificent. They've very admirable. He's a bit of a warrior that one. Should we try and approach them?
BOURDAIN: Yeah.
JANSSON: When you go for lions, you don't -- never drive straight on them.
BOURDAIN: Right.
JANSSON: You kind of go in an angle, that relaxes them.
It's funny how they pretend they don't see, but they're so completely aware.
So basically what we look at to identify them are the spots, it's like a fingerprint. Puncturing in his face that means he's fighting with females, because if they fight with other competitor males, it will be -- the wounds will be on the back. It's too dangerous to go for the head area of a fight. The reason for the collar is to see how lions behave to cope with treats in the area, to show that lions and Maasai can actually stay together. They've always lived together. For the Maasai one of the diminishing things for them is large grazing lands (ph) and it's the same resource that the lion needs. If push came to show and one part had to go. It wouldn't be the wild life that's bringing in far too much money for this country.
So if they can show that they're actually fundamental and to protecting this area and protecting the lions. Well, then it's the better for them as well.
BOURDAIN: What's total population of lions do you think the country want?
JANSSON: Tanzania probably has at least 25 to 50 percent of the total population of lions so it's important country for it. And the last estimate is 30,000 lions remaining and I think it's no so much the worry of the size. But it's the rapid decrease.
We've lost large predators in the big part of the world. The worlds carry on. You would probably have other predators to take their place, you know, there'll be the Hyenas, there'll be the cheetahs, there'll be the leopards. Of course they couldn't take the big prey like the lion does. If you think about it that way, lions are a big show of an echo system that is healthy. There important to that.
20-22 hours a day they relax. So if, you know, when seen enough you can capture one (ph).
BOURDAIN: And they were beautiful.
(COMMERCIAL BREAK)
BOURDAIN: Just a few miles from the crater's rim, the CEO (ph) village about 400 Maasai live here.
(FOREIGN LANGUAGE)
BOURDAIN: Olioderup (ph) is the chief. He has four wives, 12 children a handful of whom are old enough to be out looking after the herds.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Where are you from, Tony?
BOURDAIN: I was born in New Jersey and live in New York.
You have a son in New Jersey, yeah?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yes, yes. He studied in one of the college known a Montclair State.
BOURDAIN: Oh sure I don't know (ph) Montclair very well.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Oh yeah.
BOURDAIN: Here (ph) where I grow up.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Oh yes. JANSSON: Look, look at that cloud there. There's going to be some downpour. Well, do you think it come here Olioderup (ph)?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: No.
JANSSON: No.
BOURDAIN: Not us.
JANSSON: It's funny like they always know what the clouds are doing, that's our (ph) weather a report out here.
BOURDAIN: The Maasai have been migrating with the seasons since they came to this part of Africa some time in the 15th century. Long, long before the Serengeti become a national park. And here we run into kind of existential conflict we'll be seeing more and more of as the world decide what they valued most. Unspoiled expanses of nature populated still with magnificent wild but aggressively protected animals or the indigenous people.
JANSSON: The aim for our project is promoting coexistence with lions. So when I came here to start of Lion Guardians, there were many among them who would say that we're very suspicious.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: And she knows why.
JANSSON: They thought this is going to lead to us being kicked out, that's a constant fear in this are.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Because in the past the Maasai go to (inaudible) where they -- and they kill. But today we stopped that, or we can kill if no way.
BOURDAIN: If you have no alternative.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yeah, that's why we have the spear. We are not hunters (ph) people (inaudible) the spear (inaudible) for protection only.
JANSSON: The Maasai they trust that we're here to kick them out, that we're here to work with them. And, we seeing that we're going to be to start Lion Guardian project which basically you hire Maasais to protect the lions rather than kill them.
BOURDAIN: With all of the cattle inside people house. How do you protect them from predators?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: The animal (inaudible). If you do not bother them, they do not bother you.
BOURDAIN: So, how about when they grazing?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: When they're grazing we have people who follow.
BOURDAIN: And that's enough to discourage hyaenas or lion. UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yes. But they sometime they're happy lion so they making a loud to show themselves that they're very happy. And the way to make that is in "woo, woo, ho, ho" (ph). That's to make you happy, you know, that's a -- if they does like to catch something we can hear very close only like "grr" (ph) and they'll stop. But that's loud "woo" (ph).
BOURDAIN: That's a happy one.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: That's a happy one.
BOURDAIN: No problem.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: No problem.
BOURDAIN: But that purring one that, the second noise that's good?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: That one is not...
BOURDAIN: That's a here kitty situation.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Those are all. This one must looking for finding a food and maybe...
BOURDAIN: OK. Wow my cat hate me.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yeah.
BOURDAIN: OK, this a lot of you are going to find very disturbing.
I'm guessing the little goat over there is about to get the bad news.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Come now and touch likes this.
BOURDAIN: I try and be a good guest. I eat what my host put in front of me. I try to take responsibility if something dies for my dinner.
Stand here?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: No, no here.
BOURDAIN: This one?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: All this and the horn.
BOURDAIN: So when the Chief asked if I care to do the honors and tells me how it has to be done, I'm not happy.
In fact, as I close off its air passages, I'm struggling to not throw up on myself.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: (Inaudible).
Yeah.
Tony, do you know how to skin? I can actually...
BOURDAIN: Not well enough.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: ... maybe I can show you and then I can -- go ahead, OK?
BOURDAIN: The Maasai traditionally kill their goats by suffocation for very good reason it turns out.
They keep the blood which is a vital component for the Maasai diet intact and abundant in the chest cavity.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: It continue -- you notice (inaudible) skin out so we can cut it here.
(OFF-MIKE)
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yeah.
Good.
You know.
(OFF-MIKE)
Good. And then, continue like this.
BOURDAIN: More?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yes, a little more. Good.
BOURDAIN: Good, everything is intact, beautiful.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: There's a blood, so all the blood...
BOURDAIN: It filled up the cavity...
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yes.
BOURDAIN: ... and started to get coagulate.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yes.
BOURDAIN: I get it now.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: It is easy enough to take the blood out.
BOURDAIN: Right.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: You see.
BOURDAIN: Wow.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yeah.
BOURDAIN: That's really -- I've never seen that. That's super cool.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yeah. Someone like to drink fresh?
BOURDAIN: Sure.
(FOREIGN LANGUAGE)
BOURDAIN: Not bad.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: It's good.
People -- they eat this one is fresh.
BOURDAIN: That's a kidney.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yeah. You like a piece?
BOURDAIN: Yup, just a little piece. A little.
Deep done, it's time for a little kidney. Enjoy the spoils, then party.
It's sweet, actually, that's good. I like it better than like this than cooked.
(COMMERCIAL BREAK)
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: That smelling good.
JANSSON: Yeah. That's true. That's very good.
I'm not too much of a meat eater but this -- I kind of like the goat.
BOURDAIN: Even on the Serengeti, it ain't a barbecue if there ain't some kind of beer.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Normally we have the Maasai, we love honey. We have a -- we call honey beer. The drink is just very strong. So, we here.
BOURDAIN: I love to try it some.
(FOREIGN LANGUAGE)
BOURDAIN: How can you (ph) change in the mood?
(FOREIGN LANGUAGE)
JANSSON: Take one cup.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: OK, one cup.
JANSSON: I find it...
(FOREIGN LANGUAGE)
BOURDAIN: Not bad.
JANSSON: You know, it's refreshing, it's fine.
BOURDAIN: It's like a palm wine or (inaudible) like kind of cool (inaudible) like a taste, also...
JANSSON: You can definitely taste the honey.
BOURDAIN: Yeah.
JANSSON: The sweet.
(FOREIGN LANGUAGE)
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: According to our culture, everyone has to carry a big knife.
BOURDAIN: Everybody's ready.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: Yeah.
BOURDAIN: Many aspects of their lifestyle and traditions remain unchanged.
Perfect.
This does not mean Maasai don't have cellphones by the way. Everybody does.
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: And they say when we're talking about how can we balance this because they're now looking to send our children to school, getting a good education but we still are staying very strong culture.
Yeah, he is really coming like a hard time but we continue.
BOURDAIN: I've got some other question, you know, when your son comes back live from New Jersey, you know, is your son going to want a motorcycle, is he going to want a car, is he going to watch flat screen T.V.?
UNIDENTIFIED MALE: I don't know what for the future because as you know the children they're very quickly changing their mind. Maybe one day he comes and he's a New Jersey boy. I don't know.
BOURDAIN: It's beautiful this country, this part of Africa.
Geographically huge but not really as the world and what we need to live in it shrinks everyday.
Who gets to live here? Who or what do we want to see, is for better or worst who wanted to determine that.
Nearly $1.5 billion spent here every year by people who come wanting to look mostly at beautiful animals. That is an amount it is hard to argue with and impossible to outrun.
